The National Portrait Gallery in London has opened a landmark exhibition titled The Face Magazine: Culture Shift, celebrating the first 25 years of the iconic British publication The Face. Known for defining youth culture and street style in the UK, the magazine originally ran from 1980 to 2004 and was relaunched in 2019.
The Influence of The Face
Launched by former NME editor Nick Logan, The Face quickly became a cultural touchstone, offering a monthly mix of fashion, music, film, and youth trends that weren’t represented in traditional media. From its early coverage of emerging clubbing scenes to its documentation of rave culture, the magazine provided a platform for voices and visuals that captured the spirit of the times.
Ekow Eshun, former assistant editor of the magazine and now a prominent broadcaster and curator, emphasized its cultural significance: “The Face was probably the most influential magazine when it came to style culture. This was a time before the internet, before social media. Magazines could be incredibly influential.”
Iconic Photography and Cultural Commentary
The exhibition features over 200 striking portraits, including images of Kate Moss, David Bowie, Kylie Minogue, and Blur. These photographs not only captured celebrities in bold new ways but also helped shape public perception and fashion standards across the UK.
One standout piece is a 1984 cover featuring Sade in a black hat and deep red lipstick, surrounded by feature titles like “Simple Minds,” “Matt Dillon,” and “Style: The New Glitterati.” Another highlight includes a 1997 shot by Elaine Constantine of teenage girls riding bikes and screaming—an iconic moment of carefree 90s youth energy.
Blurring the Lines Between High and Low Culture
According to Eshun, what made The Face revolutionary was its editorial ambition. “You could think about fashion trends and set them alongside big ideas like post-structuralist philosophy or speculative fiction. It was one of the first places to take seriously both the small things and big things simultaneously.”
This merging of popular culture with academic and philosophical thought gave the magazine a unique intellectual weight, transforming it from a style publication into a cultural institution.
Shaping Visual Language Through Design
Lee Swillingham, who became art director at age 23, described the creative freedom he enjoyed at the magazine: “I took over after the grunge period… very colorful, very energetic. We were early adopters of digital tech to enhance photography.”
Swillingham’s work marked a shift in the visual tone of the magazine during the 1990s, aligning with a generation raised on MTV and growing digital media.
The Rise, Fall, and Revival
The Face ceased publication in 2004, succumbing to the rise of the internet and an increasingly saturated print market. However, it was successfully revived in 2019, with both a print and digital presence, keeping its cultural spirit alive for new generations.
Senior curator Sabina Jaskot-Gill explained the ongoing relevance: “Within its pages, The Face produced some of the most innovative fashion and portrait photography of its time. It allowed contributors the creative freedom to react against the prevailing mood and help shift culture.”
Visit the Exhibition
The Face Magazine: Culture Shift runs at the National Portrait Gallery from 20 February to 18 May. Visitors can expect a nostalgic, yet forward-thinking exploration of one of the UK’s most influential publications, its legacy, and its role in shaping British visual and cultural identity.
Category: Culture, Art & Exhibitions, Fashion, Media History
Tags: The Face magazine, National Portrait Gallery, Culture Shift, British youth culture, Kate Moss, David Bowie, Kylie Minogue, Nick Logan, Ekow Eshun, Lee Swillingham, UK fashion history, 1980s rave culture
